good evening. another cool day here in hawaii. perfect weather and super fun waves. went to ala moana park and felt like surfing a left so we surfed concessions. i went out there and just had fun. i was so happy just to be in the warm water enjoying good waves with my friends…. surfing saiko!!!

naohiro is from wakayama and the next generation yamari shirasu factory owner. i’ve known him for 8 years and it’s so cool to see him grow from a young boy to a responsible young man. and it’s more cool to see him enjoy surfing as much as he does….

like i said this morning. may day is lei day in hawaii. it’s a big holiday and every elementary school celebrates this special hawaiian holiday. this is the may day festival at hokulani elementary school. i had a blast watching the kids enjoying themselves and it brought back so many good memories…
**and last. i’ve been surfing ala moana park for 23 years and counting. the first time i went out there, i seen this guy ripping and owning the lineup. that guy 23 years ago was the man back then, and still is now. ronnie yamada’s a good friend of mine and i’ve enjoyed surfing surfing with him all these years. we have surfed the best of big right’s together and caught thousands of waves out there. seen the best and surfed the best. ronnie did his fair share of traveling in japan and has many friends in isounoura. from pro surfer, to surfboard airbrush artist, to his current job, tattoo artist. ronnie is one of the top tattoo artist in hawaii and works for 808TATTOO.COM…. we paddled out together today, shared some fun waves at concessions, and paddled in together. so i pulled him over for this short interview. check it out…. and check out ronnie’s cool blog by CLICKING HERE….

good morning. HAPPY MAY DAY!! MAY DAY IS LEI DAY IN HAWAII!! waves in town going off again!!! i can see lines and lines of swell coming into bowls. looks 4′ and perfect. i think today has the best conditions so get out there and enjoy. north shore still has waves too. heard laniakea was 5′ and epic yesterday. waves for everyone…. see you in the water…
**i had a one hour wait at this local train station in thailand while waiting for my train. it was then when i walked around checking out and trying out the weird food there. nobody spoke english so i didn’t know what the heck i was eating. most food i got for free. the local people just wouldn’t take my money. they were so kind and giving. or maybe they just wanted me to try it? i don’t know but the people were so warm hearted and i felt so welcomed there. most of the things i tried i couldn’t video because i was by myself. but i had my camera on when one lady offered me this weird looking fruit. come to find out, that weird looking fruit was durian. yeah, that stinky fruit that’s not allowed in some areas in town because it’s so stink. if i knew what it was, i probably wouldn’t have tried it. but i wasn’t sure so i gave it a try. and to this day, that smell lurks in my mouth. i’m surprised i didn’t throw up…. i would never ever eat durian again…. even if somebody paid me too…. no way…. check out part 2 of many parts to come…

good evening… surfed for over 4 hours today. big rights was pretty fun in the morning. over head and clean conditions. got a few barrels so i was stoked. nobody was out when i got out then when i was about to go in, all the boys came out. ronnie, cedric, nick, and others. i went in to eat lunch and have my brownie with a glass of milk. i knew it was a matter of time when they would all come in so i waited and paddled back out at 2pm. sure enough, they just came in. good timing!!! the waves got bigger and better. only kyle and a few other guys out. score!!! the waves were pumping. got barreled again and went in after 4pm. then as i was paddling in, ronnie, nick, and more of the boys were paddling out. i gave them a handshake with a big smile on my face… i guess they saw my last barrel… haha… i had a great day surfing today and can’t wait till tomorrow to do it all over again… thanks to all the boys out at big rights for sharing that special wave… and sorry if i caught too many today. i know you guys understand that i haven’t surfed for a while… right?? see you tomorrow….

this is bowls at 11am. no parking, a lot of surfers, and perfect peeling lefts. i seen my nephew micah in the parking lot and asked him how the waves were. he told me “shitty”. i wanted to give him a good scoldings…. that kid doesn’t know what “shitty” is….

as i was pulling out of bowls, i seen this truck with the coolest sticker on the back window. it said “I just want to get barreled”. i pulled on the side to ask where she got that sticker from but the girl was talking on the phone so i couldn’t get her attention. gosh, i really want that sticker… oh, and wanted to say hi to the japanese guy and girl that pulled on the side of me at the stop light. thanks for checking out my blog… sorry i couldn’t stop to talk. the light turned green so had to go.. hope to see you somewhere sometime again…. mahalo…

yet another surfer killed from a shark. that’s two people dying from shark attacks this week. gosh, that’s really sad….

and last, don’t forget that we’re at war right now. even though this week has been the most deadliest for american troops, the innocent get caught in the crossfire too. during war, nobody wins. we all lose…