i surfed twice, once at bowls and rockpiles. then surfed again at lighthouse in the afternoon. went for a swim, a short hike, and some yoga to finish my day. oh, and not to mention my 3 hour nap…. going to do it all again tomorrow…. goodnight.

check out this train crash in china today. 70 dead and 400 injured. shit, when i was on a train similar to this one the other day, i was thinking about it crashing too. it was so old and didn’t look too safe. things like this can happen at any given day. that’s pretty scary when i think about it…

check out the new Hawaii Magazine. just got it in the mail. wanted to thank my friend darin isobe for sending it to me…

and wanted to thank darin for using my photo for this spread. cool layout. i’m super stoked….

when i got off the plane and came home, my brother asked me to cut this aku or katsuo for him. cleaning fish was the last thing i wanted to do. but when lunch time came around, i was thinking that a katsuo donburi sounded good. so a katsuo donburi is what i ate.. it was so good….

speaking of cleaning fish. i was walking through a night market in a little village in thailand and seen this girl cleaning fish. i wish we had these in hawaii so i don’t have to clean fish all the time. i’d be there everyday, with fish or without fish.. haha…. just joking….

good morning. 7am monday morning. waist/chest high surf around the island. trade winds making for clean conditions. got a bunch of guys out at bowls already. swell supposed to pick up tonight and peak tomorrow. hopefully 4’+ but just have to wait and see. i’m out of here…. have a nice day….

and if you don’t know by now, tahiti is going off!!! big and perfect for the billabong pro. japanese surfers in the trials all lost. bummer. wakita did the best and made it to the 4th round, which is pretty dam good. anyway, this is jamie obrien. good chance of winning the whole thing…. stay tuned…
i was in tokyo last year and shot this short clip of the world’s busiest intersection. it’s in shibuya and if you ever get lost, you will never be found.. they say sometime 3,000 people cross this intersection on one light. times that by the hundreds of times it changes a day. yeah, it’s pretty busy over there….

good evening. such a beautiful day here in paradise. surfed bowls this morning and had a blast. waist high with 30 guys out but no problem. i was catching every single wave i could and riding it as for as i could. i felt like i just started surfing again. pure stoke!! everybody is waiting and talking about the next big south swell that’s going to hit this week but i ain’t waiting. i’m surfing everyday. then get burnt out, then go back to thailand. haha. just joking. good night….

drove thru waikiki this morning. looked like paradise….. lucky tourists….

heard tokura-san was in toyama yesterday. just wanted to give a shout to all the locals over there. this is miura-san from bouz surf shop. hope to see you guys this typhoon season. keep on surfing!!!

remember this? toyama nights…. can’t wait to do it all over again, and again, and again….

and last, this is my friend carter’s wife miwa narita. she just came out with her second book and wanted to congratulate her on that. what an accomplishment. congratulations miwa-san… if you want to become beautiful like miwa-san, you better read this book. i just got mine and i think i will look like her really soon… well, i wish…
check out MIWA NARITA’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE….