Saturday November2日 2024年

Perfect Pipe/Backdoor Again and Again….

good evening. wow, what another awesome day of surf on the north shore. went out early and freaking scored… the buoy went down last night and the surf report forecasted it to be 3-4′. i’m glad they were wrong…..

when i pulled up to backdoor, i seen perfect a-frame 6′ solid sets barreling. i ran to grab my board and paddled out. come to find out, the 6′ sets i seen wasn’t even the sets. there were some solid 8′ backdoor/pipe waves coming in pretty solid. i keep on saying this, but today was probably the best backdoor of this winter season. guys were getting barreled out of their minds. it was totally epic…. i seen australian pro surfer dean morrison get a sick barrel when i was paddling out. it was pretty weird because i was just watching him surf his quarter final heat against mick fanning a couple of days ago at the snapper rocks contest in australia. did he lose on purpose to jump on the next plane to hawaii? what ever it was, he looked pretty dam happy getting barreled all day long. a lot of my friends are calling this the best winter season EVER!! i totally agree. but if you came and left before last month, this season was probably the worst. i agree too. solid back to back swells with perfect light trade wind weather for the next week. i’m so burnt out but can’t stop having fun…[:??????:][:??????:]

i was at pipe/backdoor from 7am to 12pm. surfed in the morning and then watched my niece and nephews surf it. it was pretty solid but they still paddle out….

i’m so happy to be able to see some of my family surfing the north shore. but in about a year or so, these kids will probably be dropping in on me. then i won’t be so happy.. haha….

and last, just got the new go-naminori stickers printed out. because i’m so happy recently, i’ll give the first person to send me their name and address these 3 stickers for FREE!!! you’ll be the first because nobody has these yet…. one set for the first person in hawaii and one set for the first person in japan. ganbatte ne… oh, my email address is somewhere is to the left of my blog page…. surf your dream….

"LOST" in Hawaii….

good morning. 5:45am and i can feel it. i’m going backdoor. i mean, i’m going to backdoor… see you in the water…

“LOST” is a really popular drama that the world is watching. once it hit the air 4 years ago, it’s been pretty much #1. now it’s all around the world and billions of people watch it. did you know they film everything here in hawaii?

they crashed an airplane and landed on this desert island. well, that’s if you watch the show. i never really got into it but know where and when they film. i even watched them film an episode once. how? connections. the actors and actresses are normal people in person but glow on screen…. wow….

lot’s of fans would kill to be able to walk on this set and see the actual camp. check out below some photos i took the other day….

this the set in storage. they will start filming again next month so this place will be alive again. and not so lost. get it? haha….

this chair look familiar? i stuck a go-naminori sticker on the bottom of it… haha….

and i ate all their “dharma initiative” food too…. this mustard tasted good on my hotdog….

if you watched the drama, this set must look familiar….

this too. after getting bit by 100 mosquitos, i was out of there. i’m glad i ain’t “LOST”…… get it? haha…. thanks for laughing at my stupid jokes….
**i should start a “lost” tour yeah? and you can bring your hotdogs too…..

Big Ono off Rabbit Island….

good evening. what another beautiful picture perfect day here in hawaii. waves all over the island. the north shore was pretty dam good and so was town. town had some chest high waves with offshore conditions. i think just about everybody is getting surfed out. well, everybody except me. the north/west swell is going to hang around for a while so expect perfect waves everywhere on the north shore. light trade winds for the next week so perfect conditions too. gosh, can it please rain so i can get things around my house done? i can’t focus on anything else when the weather and waves have been the way it’s been this past month…..

took a spin to the east side today. stopped by the pali to check out the panoramic view. shit, when i saw how nice the east side was, all i could think about was diving….

then stopped by lanikai beach. this beach was once rated number 1 of the world for the most beautiful beaches on the travel channel. i’ve been to many beaches before but nowhere comes close to this….

white sand, emerald color water, and blue sky. what more could you ask for. not too many tourists or japanese know about lanikai beach. it’s pretty hard to find. look good because once you find it, it’s all worth it….

just wanted to say thanks to kensuke and maki. had a great day with this brother and sister… keep on surfing…..
**got an email from kevin from okinawa. thanks kev. check it out….

So I was in Hawaii for three days and I got to get out with Kurt Chambers and Derek LeVault. We went to the back side of Rabbit island on wednesday. It was awesome! We had all intension of just freediving until we saw monsta Uku and Ono. Kurt landed one Ono and I shot another to only lose Kurts spear.
Also had an amazing steamed Mu dish. Oishi!
***and last, check this out!!! the next 5 day weather forecast. get your sunscreen, surfboards, and g-strings out. oh, i mean trunks… haha… continued paradise…..[:??????:][:??????:][:??????:]