Isn’t she lovely…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Bowls was chest high and tricky.  Not normally perfect and very challenging.  This rainbow was out all morning long.

She needed some love and now she’s looking sexy.  Looks brand new again!

Spent 5 hours this afternoon backing up my computer and photos onto hard drives.  This is a classic one of Shun Murakami and Seth Moniz at Kewalo’s when they were kids.

I use to make sure Seth had the best boards under his arms.  Now, Seth is making sure I have the best boards under my arms.

Back to the days when I’d travel around Japan chasing typhoon swells.  Big or small, our job was to surf all day.

And since this particular time was in Okinawa, I was looking forward to hanging out with my friends at night drinking Orion beer and habushu.  Hard Reef all night long!  Like Kazubo-san would say “habushu a nice day!”

These were some of the greatest times of my life.  Searching for perfect waves in the Mentawai’s when there were no surf camps, no surfers, no cell phones, no internet, and no bullshit.  Just a bunch of us surfers loving life to the fullest!  Tokura-san showed me how it’s done.

My dinner tonight is Okinawan soba and pork ribs.  Yummy!

This is one of the most beautiful scenic places in the world.  It’s also the highest sea cliffs in the world.  Waterfalls from the clouds to the sea.  It’s very hard to access and you will need a very reliable boat to get there.  Every time I go there, I get chicken skin.  It’s that magical!    

This place is always home for our family.  A place to hunt, a place to gather, a place to laugh, a place to slow down, and a place to respect.  This is Molokai.