Photo by Neal Miyake.

I met Neal Miyake one day in the ocean over 35 years ago.  He was always shooting photos at Backdoor so I’d see him everyday.  I use to think he was crazy because waiting in the impact zone at Backdoor is scary.  There is no channel so there is no escape.  So much power slamming on the very shallow reef so you’re constantly in danger.  You have to be totally aware because there is no room for mistake.  People have died out there so it’s very tense.  Everybody is watching out for each other, everybody is respectful, and everybody wants that “wave of the day!”  So yes, we all are taking extremely high risks.  Neal got this shot of me which looks pretty scary.  This one I came up with no scratches but that’s not always the case.  I’ve had to go to the Emergency Room many times.  High risk equals high reward.  It’s an addiction for both surfer and photographer!

Fast forward 35 years.  We are older and wiser.  The stakes at Ala Moana Bowls are much lower.   But we are still doing what we love.  Thank you Neal for the 35 years of creating memories!

Yesterday once more:  Tommy ripping it up!

Nice top turn.

Style is everything…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!