When I say go, you should go.  Two reasons why.  One is because it’s guaranteed to be a good wave.  Two, I’m in the perfect position to get the coolest photo.  The worst thing you can do is to miss it.  And the worst worst thing you can do is to fall in front of me.  OMG!

This was probably the best wave this morning.  A perfect chest high set at Bowls going to waste.  It actually makes me pretty frustrated because that could have been my best wave of the day.  I didn’t give this girl another wave after that.  Haha.

This was Dean and his daughters best wave of the day.

This is cool!

So nice to see the Uncles still surfing.  Uncle Paul always has the best jokes.  We’re laughing more than we’re surfing.  

Jerome on the glider.

Then Jerome testing out my shortboard and ripping.  The best summer ever continues.  More swells on the way!

Yesterday once more:  Rocky was ripping!

Good rail to rail surfing.

And good power turn.

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny after morning showers.
Have a wonderful day!

Last night we celebrated my sisters and Joshua’s birthday.  A big family gathering with lots of love and laughter.  Good to see Seth back home and all the kids playing around.  

Shizume-san was surfing good yesterday.  The waves were slow but he was surfing fast.

Nice turns and surfing a lot better than last year.

This morning we went on a boat trip.  I keep on forgetting I have a boat.  Nothing beats this.  

I haven’t foiled in a very long time so I didn’t even know if I remembered.  Once I got up on my first wave, the feeling of flying came back pretty fast.  It felt so free!  Then I went back to the boat to grab my surfboard because the waves were so good.  

I was once the most hated guy at this spot because I was the first one to foil there.  Most surfers hate foilers so I get it.  Today, I felt welcomed back and all the uncles were so nice to me.  Thanks guys and girls for making me feel so welcomed.  

Malia on a smooth one.

Jerome on the 8’0.

Then I put on my mask and scrubbed the bottom of the boat.  Foil, surf, and dive.  No wonder I came home and took a 3 hour nap.  Another great day in the ocean!