Chest high and glassy!

Yesterday once more:  Fun in the sun…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were beautiful, the water was clean, and the session was amazing.  Noda-san duck diving a big one.

So happy to surf with Noda-san.  Nice bottom turn while getting ready for the next turn.

Good waves and good vibes.  We went home happy surfers!

I’m having a hard time planning my next surf trip because surfing right here in Hawaii is like a surf trip.  There have been waves everyday and everywhere.  And the good thing about it is my own bed is just minutes away.

I tested out 2 boards this morning.  The ROUND PIN tail carves into the turns.  You have to push a little harder through turns.

The SWALLOW tail has better release so it turns a lot easier.  Both boards work good depending on how hard you want to push yourself.  Today’s waves were a little soft so the SWALLOW tail worked better.  Look closely and you can see the purple board on the rail where as the yellow is a little flatter through the turn.

I found this album in a box in my Mom’s closet.  Does anybody know who this is?  This has to be over 50 years old?