good evening. went to the north shore early this morning and pipe/backdoor was going off!!! it was a bummer because they had a contest so all i could do is watch and dream….

i was dreaming that i was in that barrel….

and this one too….. we ended up surfing haleiwa and it was pretty good. not as good as backdoor but good enough….

then came back to town and the waves were good too. this is diamond head at 12pm. 100 guys out? ended up surfing a secret spot and it was only us…. so today was a good surfing day for me… can’t wait till tomorrow…. oh, the next huge swell supposed to peak tomorrow noon so there’s a good chance the eddie will go. if it’s on, i’m going to go watch history in the making…. have a good evening…

ohayo gozaimasu. 5:30am here on this chilly morning. planned to wake up at later but i couldn’t sleep because kenji’s snooring was too loud. can barely see the waves but it’s probably going to be good. huge north/west swell tomorrow but north winds along with it. i can see a lot of white wash at bowls right now so i wouldn’t be surprised it it’s 3′. south swell on sunday with north winds? oh my gosh…. there are going to be a lot of happy surfers in town…. secret spots going off!!! anyway, i’m going to the north shore today. have a nice day….

and check out this photo from the pictures of the week. this is the leftovers of the wildfires last year in california. when i was 6 years old, i was playing with matches in our backyard and accidently lit the mountain on fire. i remember when the fire truck came to my house to put out the fire, the fireman scolded me. i will never forget that. since that day, i didn’t play with matches ever again…. i will never forget that day….

my brother is a mechanic and takes cars apart all the time. yesterday when i left the house, he was working on a brand new toyota 4 runner air condition. the car looked like a hurricane went through it. a few hours later when i came home, he was already done putting everything back together. by himself…. he must have a good memory….

good evening. town had some waves today and diamond head was the spot. it was head high and super fun…

go-naminori web designer naoka and japanese photographer kenji sahara flew in today and scored 2 sessions in town. more south swells on the way….

and check out the evening sunset at diamond head. so awesome….. have a great weekend…..
COMPETITOR ALERT: Quiksilver Eddie Aikau
A letter from Quiksilver…

Aloha Invitees & Alternates,
This email is to notify you that the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational In Memory of Eddie Aikau is on AMBER ALERT.
Contest Director George Downing has given the event a 50/50 chance of going this Sunday, January 13, 2008 (Hawaii time).
Over the past 48 hours Waimea Bay has experienced good waves in the 15 to 18-foot range.
The second storm system, due to fill in overnight on Saturday, for Sunday, has potential to be larger.
The timing of the arrival of the swell looks good.The duration of the swell looks good for a full day.Winds are forecast to be trades.The only question is what actual height materializes.
As you know, the height requirement for this event is CONSISTENT 20-FOOT OR LARGER.
George Downing will be consistently monitoring the storm from this hour forward. Our goal is to make a decision on the event as soon as possible.
Understanding that many of you have a great distance to travel, and must come to your own decision, we want to keep you informed as the situation unfolds.
We CANNOT make a definitive call on Sunday at this time. The decision of whether to travel to Hawaii ultimately rests with each individual.What we are striving to do is provide you with clear communication and relay whatever information we have to you in the most timely way possible.Unfortunately, with the absence of Buoy 51001, a 10-hour lead time on the size/arrival of swell is not possible.
Next update to competitors: 10am Hawaii time tomorrow – Saturday, January 12, 2008.