Thursday November7日 2024年

Mele Kalikimaka…

good morning. 7am here on this christmas morning in hawaii. merry christmas everyone!!!! hope santa brought you something you wanted. this year, santa said surfers were naughty so he brought no waves. the waves are once again small and windy. north shore is max 2′ with only one guy out at pipe now. it’s windy and bumpy. town is waist high and kind of windy too. 2 guys out at rockpiles, 3 guys out at bowls, and 3 guys out at the park. looks smaller and a lot more windy than yesterday. but you know what? it’s better than nothing right???? get out there and enjoy this beautiful christmas day!!!! oh, wanted to say thanks to all my friends who left voice messages, sent me text messages, and emails wishing me a merry christmas. i wish you the same too… be safe and enjoy the holiday season. hope to see you all soon….

check out this killer mele kalikimaka song by the Beach Boys…..

and check out this awesome christmas lights display….

Christmas Eve in Hawaii…

good evening… gosh, that a windy day it was today. even though it was windy, the surf in town was super clean. i surfed bowls mid morning and mid afternoon. it was chest high and perfect. shun and ryota were catching waves a 100 yards long. from their first session a couple of weeks ago in hawaii, their surfing level has gone way up. just to see their smile when surfing is awesome. reminds me how it use to be for me when i was younger. surfing was for pure stoke. it still is now but kind of different. i guess i’m a little spoiled…..

want a sneak peak of the new hilton hawaiian lagoon? i took this photo over the fence. this place is going to be packed with tourists. it’s just too beautiful….

i was driving through waikiki and queen’s was going off!!! only 8 guys out and it was chest high and perfect rights. a longboarders dream wave….

anyway, it’s christmas eve and i’m going to relax and enjoy it. i can’t wait till santa comes tonight… good night…..
**and one last thing, just wanted to say HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MY FRIEND MATSUO…. TANJYOBI OMEDETOU GOZAIMASU…. check out matsuo’s blog by CLICKING HERE…..

MERRY CHRISTMAS JAPAN!!!!

good morning. 8am here on this christmas eve in hawaii. got some waves in the country. north shore’s 3′ with 10 guys out at pipe. looks pretty fun and clean. the contest at haleiwa is off for today and tomorrow. town got some little waves. waist/chest high and really clean. 8 guys out at rockpiles and about 10 out at bowls. it’s full moon today so a super high tide right now. got things to do, like sufing… see you in the water…

just wanted to wish my sponsors (Dove Wetsuits, TSSC Surfboards, Spice Clothing, Barrels Water Sports, VonZipper Sunglasses, Destination Surf, and everybody at Go-Naminori) and also my many friends all over japan a MELE KELIKIMAKA. japan is a day ahead of us so it’s their special christmas day….. CHRISTMAS OMEDETOU GOZAIMASU!!!!