Another peaceful day in paradise…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Lucky Thursday at Bowls.  Good waves and few people.  JJ was one of the few lucky surfers this morning.

Great surfing this week JJ!

At one point, there was only Uncle Barry, Uncle Pat, and us out at Ala Moana Bowls!  And the waves were super fun!

Mighty Mouse going left.

JJ going right.

It’s been an epic week of surfing.  I guess the summer isn’t over yet and nobody’s complaining.

Always good to meet up with legend surfer/shaper Chuck Andrus.  He’s been shaping since the 1970’s.  He’s now 71 years old and still charging 10′ Sunset Beach. The first board he made for me was back in 1990.  Great shaper and greater man!

Watched the kids playing baseball in the backyard.  This is were it all begins…

Yesterday once more:  Keone sequence 1 of 3.

2 of 3.

3 of 3.

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!