Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

From knee high town to double overhead North shore.  This board is magic.  

The smaller the better.  And the bigger the better.  Anything is better with this board.  Left foot is the steering wheel.

Right foot is pushing the gas pedal.

Remember:  Front foot is for steering only.  Back foot is for acceleration.  Make sure both feet are on the right spot of the surfboard.  Then life is good!

More than a feeling…

Good morning 4:50am.
North shore 6-8′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!