The surf report forecasted 3-5′ today. BUT, like I always say, “never believe the south shore surf report.” Bowls was almost flat so I got back in my car and left. 
I had a feeling it might be small so I threw my foil in my car just in case. Headed out to Waikiki to surf with the Uncles. Uncle Clarence riding a wave while Uncle Mark paddling out. Nice sharing waves with you Uncles! 
I haven’t foiled for a very long time. First time this year and all my equipment was corroded. I wasn’t even sure if I could fly again. But when I took off on my first wave, I pumped into another, and another. My first ride ended up being 5 waves. I was so stoked! So good to feel so free again. It feels like I have the ocean all to myself!
I’ve never felt the current out at Waikiki so strong before. The wind was blowing one way but my boat was pulling the opposite way. I was checking one of my motors and had to hang on for my life.
These are the days inexperienced people get swept out to sea. It was like a river flowing straight out to sea. It was hard to even hang on. Please be careful out there!
