Enjoy the ride…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and onshore.
Diamond Head shoulder high.
South/East winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After surfing the outside at Waimea Bay, we came more to the inside to catch a few waves.  I told Roy this is a game of dodgeball.  We wait in the inside but when the big sets start to break on the outside, we paddle our fastest to the channel to get away.  It was pretty fun dodging those big waves.  But when the inside waves came, it was so beautiful!  

And you can actually do big turns.  I’m still impressed by Roy’s surfing level and how he easily connected to that magical wave.

When you paddle for a wave, you better catch it.  Why?  Because if you miss it, there could be a bigger one behind.  And that bigger one will smash you.  So as you can see, I’m paddling my hardest and I wasn’t going to miss it no matter what!  Haha.  

The inside waves were half the size of the outside waves.  This inside one is way overhead so imagine how big the outside sets were.  My 7’4 was feeling small.

It was a fun and magical day.  Now I want to surf a much bigger wave!  Anyone want to go with me on the next swell?  

The amount of water moving in the bay is crazy.  You can be paddling your fastest forward but the surge will make you go backwards.  You can feel the power and it’s something you truly respect.  This spot is for advanced/experts only.

Sunnyside@Wahiawa.  Local style plate lunches.

And fresh baked pies served daily.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 8-10′.
Ala Moana chest high.
Diamond Head head high.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!