Fresh fish goodie bag…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When I arrive in the dark, you really can’t see the waves.  BUT, you can surely hear them.  This morning I knew it was going to be bigger than yesterday and by the sound of it, it wasn’t only bigger, it was stronger.  The loud “boom, boom, boom” will wake up those butterflies in your stomach.  The tide was very low again so bigger waves breaking over shallower reef equals very high risk surfing.  Yesterday I felt the feeling of being in the barrel, and today I wanted more.  It’s an addiction.

I teach my students that I want them taking off on the top of A-frame.  That means positioning yourself in the right place, paddling hard, and making sure you’re at the perfect take off spot to maximize the wave.  This is where you should be on every wave you ride.  This one felt like heaven!

When you think about it, pulling into a barrel like this over very shallow reef is terrifying.  But as I’m in the barrel, the last thing on my mind is fear.  This is where it feels like you’re in another world.  A world I want to live in forever!

Then the spit blows you out of the barrel over lots of foam and moving water.  It was a very wobbly exit, but completed.

This was supposed to be my last wave but I got greedy and went back out again for another one.  Next one I got, I was in the barrel but couldn’t come out of it.  I was so bummed!  Then the wave right after mine, I’m watching John John Florence take off, pull into the barrel, and didn’t make it too.  That actually made me happy so I went in.  Haha.

Pipeline/Backdoor:  Craziest and most dangerous lineup in the world!

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
South/East winds at 10mph.
Sunny and hazy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!