Just about a year ago, I almost got rid of my Canon camera gear.  I thought the iPhone was good enough.  Thank goodness I didn’t because now I feel like using it again.  

Having a dream session and remembering it is one thing.  But having a dream session and documenting it is another.  We like to document things because you can go back anytime and relive it.  Not too many times will you be able to enjoy a Mentawai like boat trip right here in Hawaii.  We travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  Not this time…

So stoked to be surfing with the surfer who inspired me to keep on surfing.  If it wasn’t for Tokura-san, I would have been a salaryman in Japan as intended.  I remember him telling me back in 1992 that I’m a surfer so keep on surfing.  Ever since that day, I kept on surfing.  So yes, I am very grateful for the words of wisdom.

A smile can tell it all.  Deco-san got so many good waves that all she could do was smile from start to finish.  This is what surfing is all about.

Yesterday once more:  Perfect Diamond Head Cliffs…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sun, rain, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another great day of surfing.  Paddled out to Bowls and scored some really good waves.  It was crowded but crowds don’t bother me anymore.  I’m just so grateful to be in the ocean.

After I came in, I watched it for a while.  Lance Hookano of course getting the good ones.  The sets were much bigger than this but these are the ones we all look for.  You can do 7 turns on one of these waves.

I always tell people to stay out of Lance’s way.  If you are, he will run you over, even if you’re his friend.

So good to see the older guys still surfing and ripping like this.  In the water, Lance told me to stop by his house because he has something for me.

Isaiah Moniz has been ripping Bowls these past mornings.  I’m so proud to see this him surfing so good.

This afternoon, we went to surf a spot where I first learned how to surf.  It doesn’t get any more beautiful than this.  Just Tokura-san, Deco-san, and I having the whole ocean to ourselves.

Going to and coming home from surfing, I pass by Lance’s house because it’s on my way home.  Today was my lucky day!

These were the last 2 mangos of the season on Lance’s tree so I’m honored to receive it from such a gentlemen.  So sweet!