Just arrived to white heaven. So excited!!!

So far, we’ve been using Mayuki a lot this year.  My goal is to use her at least 4x a month for the rest of 2024.  The reason is I love being in the ocean and feeling the ultimate freedom.  This is my happy place.  Zero stress out here.    

And sometimes when you least expect it, you will pull up to a wave like this.  Just like Indonesia.

These 2 girls are probably the most physically fit surfer girls around.  They can paddle forever, surf forever, and hike up the cliff forever.  Boot Camp for life.  

I went to Japan for a day in January.  I couldn’t sleep so I walked around on the empty streets at 4am.  It was freezing cold but the air felt so fresh.

Then when it got lighted, I turned a corner and saw this.  OMG, I got chicken skin!  

Speaking of chickens, I saw a homeless man walking his cart around with a chicken on the top of it.

Pet or food?  I wonder…

The waves have been really small so far this summer.  But it’s still really fun when you have the right board for the right wave.  I’ve been experimenting with a lot of boards recently and they all seem to be working good in the small surf.    

Putting a big and thick board up on a waist high wave is what Ben Aipa taught me.  The trick is to time the take off so you can get a good bottom turn use your knees to spring to the top of the wave.  Till this day, when ever I take off, I can still hear Ben saying “stick it up!”  

When you have over 10 magic boards, it’s really hard to choose the one to take on a trip with you.  I would like to take them all, but for this upcoming trip, I’m only taking one.  I already changed my mind 4 times and I still don’t know which one to take.  I’m so confused…