I basically quit surfing for 3 years when I started to foil.  That turned to to be a very good break for me because now, I have the surf fever again.  Since the last 43 plus years, surfing has now brought me the highest levels of joy.  All I think about is “surf, surf, surf!”  And “barrels, barrels, barrels!”  

The morning crowd and afternoon crowd is totally different.  Different vibe, different personalities, and different experiences.  When I first paddled out in the afternoon, a surfer in his 60’s paddled by me and said “get out of my way!”  I’m positive he thought that I was a Japanese tourist.  I won’t say what I told him but it wasn’t nice.  

After a super good morning surf, I asked this girl “do you want to surf again in the afternoon?”  She looked at me and said “yes I do.”  So yes we did.

She has 5 of her own magic surfboards to choose from.  She surely chose the right one for this session.  So easy!

Yesterday once more:  Bowls firing!

Good morning 4am.
North shore small but coming up later today.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This is the first real South swell since last summer.  Everybody has waited months and months for this day so I wasn’t surprised surfing with 50 other locals this morning.  Barak getting ready to hit the lop.  

Carter flying down the line on his carbon “Great White.”  

The girls were looking really comfortable out there today.  So to make this girl uncomfortable, I told her to climb up the rocks and exit the ocean this way.  This is scary for first timers, and also very dangerous.  But like everything else, you have to practice.  

This is called “The Rockdance.”  

She did it!  Now she must do it another thousand times to make the uncomfortable feel comfortable.  

After lunch, we went back out for Round 2!  Super warm and good waves.  It felt like summer again!