Saturday December6日 2025年

Live Today, Not Tomorrow

Early morning session this morning and the girls were hunting.  Catching a lot of waves and riding it with flow.

There’s no need to force a turn, just go with the flow just like this.

New board, new life.

Please read this and follow this.  I do.

Remember these days?  We have to start doing this over again and again.

February 29, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Cool trade wind mornings continue..

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore waist high.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

35 Years of Sunrises

Another early morning start for Round 1.  Getting ready in the dark and paddling out as the sun rises is absolutely the best feeling.  

I’ve been watching sunrises and sunsets for the past 35 years of my life.  And it only gets better.  

We’ve been surfing so much that this girl is advancing pretty fast.  Now she’s riding a 6’1 easily.  She tried it last time she was here and could barely paddle it.  Now she’s taking off on her own and doing cutbacks on it.  So cool!  

Calm and focused.  A couple weeks on this board and then she’s going to ride even a shorter shortboard.  She’s feeling alive!    

The clouds this morning looked pretty cool.  

Round 2 Boot Camp at Diamond Head.  The girls did excellent out there today.  They knew where to get the best waves, and they rode it perfectly.  They both caught about 30 waves total.  Success!