Saturday December20日 2025年

Jellyfish and Chigasaki

When ever there are box jellyfish warnings, I’m hoping there aren’t any on the beach.  Fortunately, this morning had a lot on the beach at Bowls.  So we got back in the car and headed to Diamond Head.  

Thank goodness because Diamond Head was so good!  Head high and empty.  The cold wind and jellyfish must have kept everyone home because only a few surfers showed up on this Saturday morning.  

The waves were challenging, but once you got one, it was a long wall all the way from the outside to the inside.  If you’re lucky, you can do 8 turns.  

At one time, it was only the 2 of us.  Riding waves and enjoying one of the best Diamond Head sessions in a while.

We came in pretty content.  Smiling up the hill and all the way home.  

I was going to take a nap so was looking for a boring documentary on Netflix.  Then I came across something that gave me chicken skin.  OMG, one of my all time favorite bands in concert.  I watched it, sang along, teared up, and remembered the good old days when I use to live in Shonan…

Standing Strong

This 3 guys are committed.  They’ve been foiling every single day of the year for the past 4 years.  They all look happy, healthy, and very content.  It’s always a good vibe when they’re out in the ocean flying around.  Good to see you Egan, Kent, and Dane.

I’m on my foil flying right behind this girl yelling “PADDLE, PADDLE, PADDLE!!!!”  I would be so nervous if I were her.  Haha.

Once she gets up, it’s pretty easy to get a nice photo.

When we were at Haleiwa the other day, I went to visit this special tree.  Barbecuing with my family under this tree when I was only 6 years old.  Fifty years later, this tree is still standing strong.  And 50 years later, the memories are also so strong.

Mateus is getting older so I’m not sure how many more years he’ll come over and play.  This kid makes me so happy when he’s around.  I wish I can take him everywhere I go.  Haha.

February 3, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Epic Diamond Head.

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore big and onshore. Pipeline Pro OFF.
East shore big and wild.
Ala Moana waist high and strong offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and strong offshore.
Box jellyfish warning.
Sunny, windy, and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!