I never go to the North Shore in the afternoon unless I know there will be a 99% chance of scoring!  We pull up, the winds are onshore.  As we paddle out, the winds switch offshore and becomes a surfers dream.   I travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  This one took 1 hour in the car and 15 dollars of gas.  The only 2 other surfers out with us were also smiling the whole time.    

A monk seal on the beach and lots of turtles in the water.  Crystal clear visibility and the most perfect waves you could ever ask for.  

I was paddling into a 5′ set and didn’t yell “go” to my student because I thought that wave was way too big for her.  As I stood up, I looked in front and she was already riding it.  Haha.  Just the white wash alone is overhead so imagine how big this take off was.  I was so proud of her!

Yesterday once more:  A North Shore rainbow!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 6-8 becoming 10′ later today. Bigger tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds this morning becoming South/West later.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Arrived early in the morning at Diamond Head.  We all knew it was going to be good again.  

Nice sunrise and clean conditions.

Local boy Mark ripping as usual.  

The girls know how to surf Diamond Head really well.  They know the lineup, they know the locals, they know the wave, and they know how to find them.  I just sit on the side watching them catch everything.  And smiling all the way back out.

The next step in Boot Camp is “rail to rail surfing.”  That means putting your body weight, power, and everything into every wave.  This is a perfect example of that.  After we surfed, I went home to take a nap.  Woke up and noticed the winds blowing South.  Jumped in the car and headed to the North shore.  It was a guarantee score!  

Perfect 3-5′ surf with only 2 other surfers out.  Sunny sky, warm water, and excellent rides.  Exactly what we went there for.  One of the local uncles came in and said “it doesn’t get any better than this.”  Yes, he is absolutely right because after surfing at this secret spot for 35 years, I’ve never seen it like this before.  The drive home was all laughs and happy smiles.  The crazy traffic didn’t matter.  A perfect end to a perfect day!