Wednesday December24日 2025年

Day 2 of 2024 Photo Diary

The 2nd day of the year.  Surfing from the first light of day again.

Naito-san’s a very good surfer.  Smooth with style.

Rode over 20 waves smiling all the way.  

This Boot Camp surfer trying out the longboard.

And trying out another longboard.  He caught over 30 waves this morning and now loves long boarding.  

Afternoon session with Ryu-san and Sounosuke-kun.  Father and son surf session.  

14 years old and surfing like a man.  Good job Sou!  

Ryu-san stylish on the magic board.

Sounosuke-kun kept on saying “This is so fun!”  

Style, control, and long rides.

Father and son sharing the same wave.

Another session on another longboard.  The confidence level is rising and rising.

The hunted is now the hunter!  

From sunrise to sunset surfing.  Over a hundred waves ridden by our Boot Camp surfers today.  Good night and let’s do it again tomorrow!

Day 1 of 2024

There’s only one place in the world where you will find me on the first day of each year.  That place is the ocean right at first light.  Had a lovely time with the boys today!

The last time I surfed with Konosuke-kun was 5 years ago.  Now he’s a man!  And he didn’t forget how to surf.  He surfed so good!

Ryu-san surfing nice and strong again.  One of the coolest doctors in the world.

Father and son surfing at first light on the first day of year is cool.  Riding a wave together makes it even cooler.  I love it!

I’ve seen a huge boost in confidence in this surfer after surfing North shore.  And that confidence is growing and growing every day.  It’s amazing how a surf session could change your life.

Now everything will be a little more comfortable in the ocean.  This man has no fear anymore.

I was waiting for this day to bring out my fresh brand new wetsuit.  I wanted to start it off right.  It felt warm, comfortable, and cool.  Dove for life…

Welcome to 2024

First light of the year. It’s going to be a good one!