We paddled out in the dark this morning.  Diamond Head was the only place in town that had waves.  Everywhere else was flat on the morning high tide.  Today was actually the biggest it’s been out there in 4 days.  Can’t beat this view.

Sato-san is a very cool surfer.  Just going with the flow and enjoying what the ocean provided.  The view at Diamond Head looks good from every angle.  

The boys pushing each other to become better surfers.  This is surfing.

Then we went for Round 2 this afternoon on the low tide.  Bowls was the best it’s been in a very long time.  So stoked to surf with Yano-san again.  Very calm, smooth, and great wave knowledge.  He caught over 30 waves today!  

Once again, the boys pushing each other to become better surfers.  This is surfing.

Pairing up surfers for Boot Camp has been really successful.  It’s the best way to connect, make a new friend, and most importantly, bring out your best performance.  It works all the time.  

Another beautiful day in paradise…

Yesterday afternoon we went for Round 2.  Today’s lesson was about “The Rock Dance.”  One of my favorite secret spots that will never get crowded.  The reason is because it’s so dangerous to enter.  The rocks are sharp, slippery, and waves smashing up upon it.  Timing is everything.  If you time it wrong, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  If you fall, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  So yes, it’s very dangerous and you least worry is dinging your surfboard.    

And it’s even harder coming out.  Now you have to worry about sharp slippery rocks, big crushing waves, and sea urchins poking your feet.  Once again, your least worries is dinging your surfboard.  But I love this place.

I don’t think we’ll ever go to the West side again.  It was just way too crowded and way too aggressive.  You literally have to be a hunter.  If not, you will be hunted.  

Three guys on one wave?  Not fun at all.  Never again…

Yesterday once more:  Today once more?

Good morning 4am.
North Shore still big at 8-10′.
Ala Moana still small at flat to knee high.
Diamond Head knee high.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!