Thursday December25日 2025年

Back to the 70’s

Went for an early morning surf.  There were actually some pretty good waves at Bowls.  I caught a set and did 8 turns on one wave.  Pretty happy so that was enough for the day.  The water was clean, the waves were clean, and hopefully there will be more tomorrow.

I went to eat lunch at the Yacht Club and the water turned brown.  You could see a running river of dark brown water coming out of the Ala Wai Canal going straight into the ocean.  That means Bowls will be dirty for the next couple of days.  Yuck.

Atsushi is bringing one of my boards back to life.  I found this one hanging in a friend of a friends garage a month ago.  It needed some dings to be patched and when it’s done, you will get to see it.   It’s about 45 old years and priceless.  Most collectors would hang this board in a surf museum, but this collector is going to ride this and try to connect back to the 1970’s.

The Birthday Queen

Happy birthday Jeanie Chesser! Wishing you another year of excellent waves and happiness!

December 20, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

A rainbow every morning…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore chest high from the North. Laniakea best.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rain, clouds, and some sun.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!