Back to the 70’s

67

Went for an early morning surf.  There were actually some pretty good waves at Bowls.  I caught a set and did 8 turns on one wave.  Pretty happy so that was enough for the day.  The water was clean, the waves were clean, and hopefully there will be more tomorrow.

I went to eat lunch at the Yacht Club and the water turned brown.  You could see a running river of dark brown water coming out of the Ala Wai Canal going straight into the ocean.  That means Bowls will be dirty for the next couple of days.  Yuck.

Atsushi is bringing one of my boards back to life.  I found this one hanging in a friend of a friends garage a month ago.  It needed some dings to be patched and when it’s done, you will get to see it.   It’s about 45 old years and priceless.  Most collectors would hang this board in a surf museum, but this collector is going to ride this and try to connect back to the 1970’s.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide