Wednesday November27日 2024年

Another 40 Days and 40 Nights….

good morning. i’m getting ready for another crazy fun 40 days and 40 nights. been back here for 8 days and pretty much totally reset. home made meals, my own bed, no alcohol, yoga, and most important, my own schedule. now i’m ready to get back on the road and live out of my suitcase going with the flow of the waves. the next time i come back to hawaii, it will be north shore season and i’m looking forward to that. until then, got trips lined up to the philippines, okinawa, and indo. stoked…. have a nice day and see you in the water somewhere…

how’s this? you can make international calls from the pay phones in hawaii these days….

just put in .25 cents and you can talk to someone in japan for 5 minutes. what a deal. cheaper than calling from my house….

there is this grape vine at my neighbors house. i didn’t know that grapes grew in hawaii. it’s the first time and i can’t wait to pick some when i get back….

and check out my new toy i just bought. it’s a sick ass $1,100 lens for my camera. now i’m set cause i have everything. can’t wait to use it. cheeze[:????????$B!r(B:]
**and last, i’m getting my pen out now and am writing “do not distrub” on my forehead. if the united flight attendant still wakes me up, i’ll be pissed…..

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles….

good evening. the south shore was pumping today. i drove by diamond head this evening and seen a 5′ set. and the direction was super west. might have to sneak in a dawn patrol session before my flight tomorrow. oh, and wanted to thank boys mike akima and alvin for the sick right they gave me at bowls this morning. got in four turns on this overhead perfect right on my last wave. it was the best right i ever caught out there. stoked…. good night…

i hate to talk about airplane crashes before i travel but a thailand domestic airplane loaded with foreign tourists crashed today on it’s way to phuket. 88 dead. shit. that’s scary….

traveling isn’t as easy and fun as you think it is. the excess baggage bullshit at the airport, the layovers, flight delays, and time to destination. that’s the shitty part. but when you catch your first wave on your surf trip, it’s all worth it…. this was our layover at singapore airport on our way back to japan from north sumatra a few years ago. that’s me, hayato, and maoh in this photo… i once had a 5 hour stop over in mexico city airport by myself. it was pretty scary. i took a nap with my backpack on. well, i tried to take a nap. if you get robbed in another country, your done…..

this is one thing i’m looking forward to my 2 days in japan. fresh ass sashimi….

and japan has the best ramen in the world. there is even a ramen museum there. this is a secret ramen spot in japan where the charsu melts in your mouth. oh, can’t wait….

South Shore up again!!

just got home from bowls. gosh, the waves came up again. i thought it was chest high when i checked this morning but when i paddled out, there were some solid overhead sets. and a lot of them. it’s only 9am and i already got in a solid session. breakfast time, surf time, pack time, and sleep time…. see ya later….