good morning. it’s 9am here on this beautiful sunday morning in hawaii. i got up at 5am and went surfing. haha. in my dreams. i was stuck to my bed and couldn’t move. it was one of those days where your mind wants to get up but your body won’t get up. but it was good because i needed a good sleep. the waves aren’t going anywhere. i’m checking bowls now and it looks chest high and really fun. got like 18 guys out. diamond head looks good too as the winds are not that strong. i’m going to eat my cereal, read the sunday paper, drink a cup of coffee. wait, i don’t drink coffee. it’s just one of those days were i’m just going with the flow. have a great day where ever you are….
i didn’t want to show this video again but i feel like i have to because i want to start from the beginning of this controversy. after i found this video online, i completely freaked out. it’s just something we americans can’t comprehend. honestly, i got pissed off and was pretty sad. i got so many emails from both americans and japanese right after i posted that blog. everybody felt the same way as i did. sad and upset. i had the oppportunity a few weeks ago to go to the actual place where the dolphin killings took place. i went there trying to find answers and trying to understand the other side. i know that there’s always two sides to everything and now i know the other side.. i’ll get into that a little later. but first, this is the side you don’t nobody wants to see. if you don’t want to watch it, don’t. it will ruin your day like how it already ruined mine….
note: this year dolphin killings already started in taiji….
Taiji Dolphin Killings…
Blue Water, Fresh Air, Clear Mind, and Ripe Mango's….
gosh, what a beautiful day it was here in hawaii. i went to ala moana beach park to jump in for a swim. i didn’t feel like surfing so i didn’t even check the waves before i left. so i didn’t take my board and yes, there were waves. concessions looked super fun and nobody was out. i blew it. anyway, i’m back home and the surf is just 10 minutes away from my house. i’m dawn patrolling bowls tomorrow morning….
check out my neighbors mango tree. bright red ripe mango’s. i’ll be knocking on their door tomorrow…..
this is ishino-san from barrels. he just left for bali tonight. tell all the boys i said hello and thanks for taking garut’s board….
and check out this artwork jasmin did for JPSA pro surfer darren turner. sick…. great job jasmin…..
**and UH football is in full swing. they are ranked #20 in the nation and just won their game today 45-44. a close one in over time. GO WARRIORS….
40 days and 40 nights….
good morning everybody!!! jumped on a plane last night and flew back home to hawaii. only be back here for a few days but i need to reset. it’s been a long 40 days and 40 nights on the road. jumping from hotel to hotel, from friends house to friends house, living out of my suitcase. from long car drives, to train rides, to bus rides, i traveled over a 2000 miles and went to 8 different prefectures. scored good waves, ate good food, and most important, had so much fun. i’m looking forward to the next few days of sleeping on my own bed, driving my own car, and eating at home. i only have a few days to get my body back to normal. the last swell, i was wondering why my trunks were so tight, and why my surfboards were so thin. then i jumped on the scale and found out why. i gained 15lbs of happiness. going to the gym, do some yoga, and of course, surf and dive….. i took over 3000 photos on my trip to japan. hopefully i will have some time to post them. wanted to say thanks to everybody who put up with my shit these past 40 days. but don’t get too comfortable because i will be back by next weekend…. haha….. see ya soon….
once i got a glance of the hawaiian islands, i had a smile from ear to ear. gosh, i’m glad to be home….
**i flew on united for the first time in a long time. it was jammed packed, a guy from california that sat next to me couldn’t stop talking, he kept on looking over my shoulder at every page of the magazine i was reading. i was pissed. and the flight attendant keep on talking to me too. i tried to sleep but she kept on waking me up. “excuse me, are you hungry?” what!!! i’m freaking sleeping!! how can i be hungry if i’m passed out sleeping? she did that twice. it was the worst return trip back to hawaii. next time, i’m going to stick to Japan Airlines. or i’m going to write “do not disturb” on my forehead…. anyway, i’m home now and now i’m going to sleep and probably be jetlagged for a few days. thanks united…. good night….