good morning. 5:45am and the waves are probably going off so i’m out of here. it’s still big and expected to get huge tonight. maybe 20′ with bigger sets… kind of scary when the buoys are broken because it can be 6′ now and 20′ by this afternoon. anyway, got to beat traffic so i’m out of here… have a nice day…
maybe i can get a barrel like this today? i wish…

good evening. i woke up this morning and looked out my window. no clouds in the sky. first time since last year october and i ain’t joking…. i was happy because i knew it was going to be a good day..

went out to the north shore and it was firing. everywhere going off!!!! check out waimea bay…. beauty man….

get this, i called the 596-7873 surf report at 3pm and it said that pipeline was 4-6′. wrong. this is pipe at 12pm and it is 10-12′ and breaking from the second reef. it was bigger than yesterday….

passed by haleiwa around 2pm and it was looking pretty fun. 2-3′ with 8′ sets…. obake sets….

then the same surf report said that town was 1-2′. wrong. i passed by waikiki this afternoon and queen’s was going off!!! perfect right point break with not too many guys out. i couldn’t resist and went to go out to catch a few waves…. this photo is of diamond head. seen some solid 4′ sets and it looked super fun too. nobody knows there’s waves in town so not too many guys were out. tomorrow will be a different story…

and last, wanted to wish sano-san from fuji-gawa a safe flight back to japan and good luck in his surfing future…. ganbatte ne…..

good morning. big waves out on the north shore and still on the way up. pipe looks 6′ and should be getting bigger. got a bunch of guys out already. conditions clean and should be epic as the day goes along. we even got a south swell going. town has some chest high waves at some spots. another awesome day of surfing so get out there and enjoy it….. have a great day…

from thursday to sunday, they set up shop and sell huli huli chicken on the north shore. right next to aoki shave ice, you can smell the chicken cooking and gosh, it smells good. i’ve eaten there a few times and i love it. if you haven’t tried it before, you don’t know what your missing out….

half a chicken with 2 scoops rice for $6? that’s a deal. i usually get that and a homemade lemonade that costs a dollar, with free refills. the shrimp is pretty good too but you can’t beat the chicken. and the best part about it is some of the proceeds go to the church. can’t wait till next thursday….[:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:]

and last, this is chigusa. chigusa is one of japan’s top women’s pro bodyboarder. i’ve known her for a long time and have surfed with her often both in japan and hawaii. does she charge? i think probably the most. a couple of years ago, chigusa rode a 20′ set at waimea bay. that was nuts. and about 5 years ago, i seen her ride this pretty big and crazy wave at a river mouth in japan all the way through the shorebreak. that was more nuts. if chigusa was a guy, she would have some pretty big balls. this is one brave and cool bodyboarder chick….