good evening. left early to the north shore again this morning and got out there around first light. i ran to check the waves and i seen a perfect 6′ backdoor wave go unridden with 25 guys out. i thought to myself, yeah, i’m going to score!! so i ran back to my car to grab my 7’0. then as i ran back to the beach, i seen another 6′ backdoor wave go unridden. i thought something was wrong so i watched the waves for a little while standing on the waters edge. then i seen a solid 10′ second reef set break and i figured out why nobody was on those backdoor waves. so there i was standing on the beach ready to surf 10-12′ pipe with my only gun i took out there today, my 7’0. which was way to short for those waves. so do i turn around and not surf? ummm, no. i figure just go out and get one. as i was paddling out, i seen a lot of waves go unridden. guys were just pulling back so i was wondering. so here come a 8′ backdoor wave and i start to paddle for it. just as i was about to stand up, i looked in towards the beach and seen something weird. i saw a 3′ wave coming toward the wave i was about to catch? shit, it was the backwash…. because there is so much sand on the beach, the waves were going onto the beach and bouncing back out to sea. there were 3′ backwash waves on almost every wave. that’s dangerous… so you had to be selective and look at your wave and look if another wave is coming from the beach before you take off. if i knew that, i wouldn’t have paddled out…. but it felt good being in the ocean with so much water moving… feels like the real north shore.. i even had butterflies in my stomach… anyway, the contest started at 9am so everybody had to go in. the waves cleaned up throughout the day and as the waves washed the sand off the beach, the backwash became less. it turned out to be a beautiful day…. can’t wait till tomorrow….

i shot this photo around 9:30am. look good and you can see the backwash coming out into the wave. did this guy make it? hell no….

off the wall was going off too. well, that’s if you can make it out. i paddled out there to try to catch my last wave in. then some freak second reef sets cleaned me and the other 2 guys up. roy powers caught the last one in and i heard he got hurt. shit, lucky it wasn’t me…. north shore power!!!

after i went to hang out at the billabong house to watch the contest with the moniz family… that house is sick… i wish i can own something like that someday….

seth charges so hard that i always forget he’s only 10 years old. i had to make trouble to him….

and yeah, alyssa and kelia… two posers…. haha… just joking….

good morning. 5:30am and it’s so dark that i can’t see the waves. but i see some 5′ whitewash and there’s no wind so it must be good. got to beat the traffic. i’m going surfing… have a nice day…
**wanted to thank kazu-san at aloha street magazine for hooking me up… check out some of my favorite places in hawaii….

jun jo and some of his buddies opened their new shop in4mation in waikiki…

want the best healthy, cheap, and ono smoothies on the island? go to “da spot”….

and want to eat some awesome vietnam “fondeu”, check out hale vietnam….
*check out the rest of my favorite places on the aloha street website by CLICKING HERE…..

good evening. check out the conditions this morning at backdoor/pipe. the waves were small but it was such a beautiful day. look good and you can see somebody getting barreled…. the waves were coming up throughout the day and it was solid 5′ and perfect by evening. tomorrow? yeah, it’s going to be epic and probably the best day of the year!!! the backdoor shootout will probably get started tomorrow so i’m going to wake up early and sneak in an early morning session…. 7’0’s in the car ready to go… have a great evening….

check out this photo. this is some where in japan. do you know where? back in 1996, i was with todd mitsui and mike woo during a jpsa contest going on at tsujido. i was supposed to surf the contest but up the road, the waves were going off so i free surfed instead. i’m glad i had understanding sponsors…. i use to surf this spot on small days and it was pretty fun. but this day there was a typhoon swell and the waves were barreling.. nobody was out so we were on it. shortly after this session, a surfer died by hitting the wall so they closed this spot and nobody could surf there ever again… i think i got barreled on every wave that day… todd surfed it backside and said it was pretty heavy. one mistake and your going to be sashimi on the wall…. another good memory….
*check out these next 2 photos. i was looking at them and just tripping out how similar they are….

joshua moniz one day ago….

and tony moniz two days ago… same blood, same style….

and last, check out the new 2008 surfing world calendar…. mr. april, hayato maki doing a bottom turn at a secret location in the philippines….