check out this photo. shinpei pulled into a barrel and pushed out through the back. my camera almost hit him in the head but i got off a snap. this is what it looks from behind the wave. pretty cool….

and yes, it’s still so dam shallow out there…. ouch….

and last, i was surfing the net and found this free wallpaper download from surfermag.com. guess who took it? kin kimoto…. this photo is sick!! gosh, i can’t wait till the waves get like this again…

good evening. went out to backdoor this morning when it was still dark. the waves came down from yesterday but still super clean and fun. i surfed for an hour and shot for an hour. it was the second picture perfect day of the winter season. no winds and no clouds…. super sunny and felt super so good…. check out the action today…

i pulled up super early and matchi was already getting ready for the dawn patrol session. check out the sun just coming up from behind the mountain….. norihiko nakayama….

naohisa ogawa also paddled out super early. going backside at backdoor is kind of dangerous because it’s shallow and there’s no channel. if i were a goofy footer, i wouldn’t want anything to do with backdoor. here is naohisa getting ready to bash the lip….

ushikoshi also paddled out early. we call this move in surfing “12’O Clock”, or “Straight Up”…..

shinpei horiguchi giving everybody in japan a peace sign….[:?????$B!x(B???:]

gosh, when i downloaded this photo today, i thought this was tony moniz. but tony wasn’t out today. this is joshua moniz… a mini tony….

this grom got the set of the day. seth moniz pulling in before school starts…
**more photos coming tomorrow morning…

good morning. 5:15am monday morning. it’s still early but i got to get out there and surf. 2 more days of light winds before the trades come back so enjoy. the waves look smaller than yesterday but it’s probably going to be fun…. have a nice day…
check out more action from yesterday’s backdoor session….

this chick is from australia and was catching more waves than the guys out there. freaking blue crush man….

peek-a-boo…..

there was this model doing a photo shoot on the beach for this clothing company called “Blue Moon Blue”. what a perfect day for a photo shoot…. oh, wanted to say hi to makoto-san….

and last, this is the reef at backdoor. oh my gosh!!! i hit it once today and luckily i didn’t get stuck in a crack… it’s only knee deep so better be careful….