Yesterday once more:  OMG…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and hazy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I woke up at 2am and very excited to explore once again.  Ever since I got my new speargun, I was dreaming every night about using it.  That dream finally came true today!

Driving in the pitch dark heading far out to sea.

Lunch prepared by the girls was wonderful!

We dove, fished, saw whales, dolphins, a manta ray, turtles, and many wildlife!  But what impressed me the most was how my little nephew Joshua Moniz grew up into a great waterman.  He knows everything about the ocean and I enjoy learning new things from him.

The fishing stories some other time.  I got home at 6pm totally tired and sunburnt!  We were out all day long and it was the hottest day of the year.  And also the most beautiful day of the year to be out in the ocean.

I was so tired when I came home but when I saw my sakura in full bloom, I could only smile.  Goodnight.

So here it is.  The final chapter of a wave that could have been the best wave of my life, or a wave that could have killed me.  Shortly after this, I got slammed right into the reef, bruised a rib, then my leg got stuck in a crack, and almost broke it.  So you can say I was lucky to survive with minor injuries.  I actually didn’t feel any pain until I got home because my adrenaline was sky high.  I was stoked, yet humbled.  One part of me thought I was too old, and another part of me said “one more!”  So the next day, I went again, and the next day after that, I went again.  The adrenaline of paddling to to waves of consequences like this in the dark is addicting.  I’ll definitely be out there again!  

I will always wonder how crazy good that barrel would have felt if I made that wave.  The only way that will go away is to actually get a better one.  So yes, I’ll keep searching for a better one!