Yesterday once more:  Early morning sunrise surf at Ala Moana.

Okamoto-san magic ride on the magic board!

Shop @ Honolulu Pawn Shop today and this weekend in TOKYO!  Go check it out!

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore chest high. Coming up tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Back to one of my craziest rides at Backdoor.  This is when you can see things starting to go bad.  From a normally routine takeoff to suddenly 4 guys in front of me.  John John is on the top left and pulled back.  He’s not the problem.  The problem is the 3 surfers duck diving right in my line.  It’s a major distraction.  And the biggest part of the problem is the bodyboarder who just duck dove right under me.  Look good and you will see a guy right under me.  It was him duck diving under me that made the water start to surge right under my surfboard, thus changing the trajectory.

I’m still focused and somewhat confident that I will recover my line.  The takeoff was perfect and my line right into the barrel was perfect too.  It was the start of one of my best barrels of my life.  Then in the next split second, the nightmare began.  OMG!