Surf your dream…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a super fun time surfing and taking photos of Hamano-san this morning.  He’s been surfing for over 40 years and knows how to have a good time.  He told me he lives to surf.

Every single wave he caught, he had a big smile from start to finish.

He rode the longest wave of his life.  From the outside all the way to the wall.  At 66 years old, the energy he had was amazing.

When I got home, Hamano-san sent me a text “It was the most fun I’ve had in my 40 years of surfing.”  Can’t wait to do it again!

Tommy sent me this photo of another sunken boat in the Ala Wai Harbor.  I bet you someone pulled out his drain plug.

For the past week, I’ve seen this young kid on the road multiple times.  He’s probably around 13 years old and rides an illegal dirt bike on the street.  Yesterday, I was driving up my street and he was in front of me doing a wheelie for over a minute.  Pretty impressive…

The water has been really warm recently.  My dive watch recorded 81 degrees (27.3C) so you don’t need a wetsuit right now.  All you need is a rash guard with a visor to protect you from the afternoon sun.  Dove makes it the best!

Always going Naminori…

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!