With the winds switching back around, we started off the day looking at Diamond Head.  After I observe the ocean and see the tide, swell direction, and conditions, it takes me 1 minute to decide where the best spot will be.  Sometimes it will be right there, and most other times it will be somewhere else.  

The normal spots in town don’t work well with the West swell that is wrapping around from the North shore.  Everywhere is just weird.  There are only about 4 spots on the South Shore that like this kind of swell.  One of them is only accessible by boat so that’s where we went.  

Round 1:  It was Nakahodo-san’s first time here at this secret spot and he absolutely loved it!  Nobody was out and nobody comes out as this spot is only good a few days out of the year.  And today was one of those few days.  The conditions were as good as it could ever get.  

On the way back to the harbor we checked Bowls and it was pretty crowded.  It didn’t look too appealing.  

Round 2:  We went to check Diamond Head this afternoon and as soon as I saw the West swell getting bigger, I knew exactly where to go.  We got there 50 minutes later and nobody was out.  Overhead and perfect!  

Another day of 2 excellent rounds.  This was my 16th session of the year so far and it was like the others, amazing!  Tomorrow is another day of taking chances, gambling, and hopefully winning the lottery!

Yesterday once more:  Small and perfect East side…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 10-15′ and coming down.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and cleaner.
Diamond Head chest high and cleaner.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  We paddled out super early this morning.  It was still dark so you can’t even see Nakahodo-san and Kamobayashi-san in this photo, but they are there.

Three days of intense Boot Camp and Kamobayashi-san is going home a stronger man.  And a surfer!

The waves were very challenging today but when you have the proper technique, surfing is pretty simple.  So stoked!

Round 2:  I saw Nakahodo-san ride so many fun waves at Bowls this morning.  It was just him and Rocky out so they were taking turns on the sets.  I was watching from the inside and was very proud of them.  Not too many people can surf onshore waves like that but they were ripping it.  This afternoon, we decided to surf a smaller and cleaner wave.  Look how beautiful it was!  So much easier after all the crazy surf we’ve been surfing lately.  Can you believe I surfed 14 rounds this year?  Yes, I surfed 14 rounds at 8 different surf spots in the first 8 days of January.  That’s crazy!!!  I guess you can call this a great year so far!

I watched Laleo Kinimaka foil some nice swells and it made me want to foil again.  Hopefully very soon!

On the way back home, we saw the boys washing off the boat so we pulled over at the harbor.  They opened the cooler and there were 2 big marlins in it.  OMG!

Then the other cooler had 2 big akus.  Yeah Benji!  I’m so proud of you boys!