Prime time Hawaii…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana flat to knee high.
Diamond Head waist to chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Back in the day:  Kazuma and Renosuke at the Kimura-san Family house. Those were the “Good Times.”

Back in the day:  Shun Murakami, Kaulana Apo, Noa Mizuno, and Seth Moniz at Kewalos. Those were the “Good Times.”

I sat on my computer for 10 hours in the past 2 days.  Looking at google maps, old photos, looking at satellite images, and looking at my globe.  Thinking and thinking of the next surf trip.  There are so many places I’ve already been, so I’m looking for a place none of us have gone to before.  And of course, a place where nobody goes to and still relatively unknown.  It’s a hard find so I went to jump in my secret spot to clear my mind and guess what?  I was all alone and a destination suddenly popped into my mind.  I rushed home to do some research.  It’s going to take 3 days to get there but I’m pretty sure it’s a place for good surf, good culture, and a good experience.

Gosh, I really miss the days I would travel all around Japan to chase typhoons.  It was so pure.  No surf reports, no cell phones, no internet, and no social media.  It was just us surfers showing up to the right spot at the right time.  It was those times you could score the most epic barrels of your life with just a buddy out.  Those were the “Good Times.”

Perfect days to learn how to surf…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 2-4′ and bumpy.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!