Great waves again today.  Still shoulder to head high sets and good.  Keoni is one of the best longboarders out there.  The conditions were not as perfect as yesterday but if you caught the right one, it was easier to surf.

Did you feel the earthquake yesterday?  I was sitting on my sofa and my house shook for a second.  Turned out to be a 3.5M one which will scare most people in Hawaii.  

I came across this old drama on Netflix.  It’s called “Beachboy’s” and it’s from the late 1990’s.  The same time I was in Japan hanging down at the beach every summer so it brought back so many good memories.  Being young, naive, foolish, and clueless during the 1990’s was the best.  No cell phones, no cameras to capture your mistakes, no social media to cancel you, and nobody cared.  Everybody just had fun.  Those summers were some of the best times of my life.  

I watched almost every drama during the 1990’s and these guys seemed to get all the cute girls.  Haha.  

I still think this actress is one of the cutest ever.  She was always on TV, and she was on those big poster advertisements.  I don’t remember her name but I surely remember her face.  Anyway, I’m going to finish up this series because watching the beach scene and the beach culture makes me so happy.  It made me realize again why I fell in love with Japan…

Uncle Barry smooth riding…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

OMG, I didn’t even know the WSL Haleiwa Pro was on today so when Trinko called me and said that Joshua won the contest, I couldn’t believe it.  FINALLY!!!  The past few years have been rough for Joshua but we all knew he was going to conquer again.  And he just did that at big Haleiwa with some of the best rides of his life.  Dominating from his first round heat all the way to the finals.  Congratulations Josh!!!

I didn’t know the Haleiwa Pro was on because I was surfing at epic Bowls.  OMG, the waves were super good again.  This is one of the best south swells ever in a month of December.  Whoever was out early in the morning scored!  

Kyle with the classic style again.  One of my favorites when it comes to the best bottom turn out there.  

There’s been some amazing sunsets.  Right as the red turns into black, I’m in bed.  Sleep early and surf early.  Goodnight.