I’ve surfed this spot a few times over the years. I remembered it being a very easy take off on the outside breaking out towards the deep water. BUT, the swell direction on this swell was different. It was breaking straight in and over the shallow reef. There was only one way in and one way out. A heavy take off and you better pull out before you end up on the rocks. 
Since we had a long drive to get there, I asked Kimura-san to just paddle out and watch. Just good to get the exercise in. I said don’t need to ride a wave, but just to go out and paddle around and watch. So he he paddled out.
Next thing you know it, I see him trying to catch waves. NOOOO!!! But Kimura-san doesn’t listen to me so I knew he was going to try anyway. So I told him, “take off, bottom turn, and pull out of the wave immediately. Don’t try to ride it for too long!!!” 
I’m on the outside watching him take off on this wave. Then I see him ride it way too long. OMG!!! I knew he was going straight for the reef. And I knew it wasn’t going to be good. I just didn’t know how serious it would be. Ambulance? Hospital? 
He ended up bouncing over the sharp reef and his Dove Impact suit saved him from going to the hospital. It kept him afloat, and it kept him from getting cut. Just a small scratch on the shoulder and a ripped rash guard. Kimura-san was lucky. I told him he will never surf there again. Well, not when I’m there because I was totally stressing out watching what happened. Never again.
