Early morning @ Ala Moana Bowls with Watari-san!  Welcome to Hawaii for the first time!

Clean conditions, nice waves, and great surfing!  Full rail bottom turn.

Going off the lip!

At one point, it was just us.  Nobody out and riding every wave that came.  A wonderful morning and fun surfing.

Getting back to my wipeout at Backdoor.  I was so bummed that whole day because I fell on what could have been one of the best waves of the day.  I searched and found this video clip from one of Nathan Florence’s video.  Then I saw exactly what I remembered happening.

First of all, this was Nathan Florence’s view as he had his GoPro in his mouth looking at this wave.  The wave looks small from this angle but it was actually a really big set.  You can see me paddling hard to catch this wave.  John John Florance is on the right side of me looking at this wave too.  I know he wanted it but Uncle Kirby was sitting deeper.  I was going no matter what.  BUT, look what’s happening right in front of me.  You have 4 guys panicking and right in my way!!!  This is where you have to make a split decision.  Go for the wave, run over these guys and possibly die, or pull back and let John John go?  What would you have done?  I’ll show you the next frame tomorrow.

Back in the day:  Joshua and Seth Moniz’s boys room!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 8-10′ and good.
Ala Mohan waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light East winds at 5mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!