Early morning at Bowls was so good again.  The swell dropped a little but the shape was as good as it gets.  There were a lot of empty barrels.  I with I was a goofy footer!

Komatsubara-san and I surfed together 9 years ago.  We’re both getting older, but enjoying the ocean a lot more now.

Morning light with a morning right.  So nice!

Seira-chan is a good wave hunter.  She managed to catch so many good waves this morning.

And surfing it really well.

Round 2 this afternoon at Bowls.  Totally different vibe than the morning crowd.  A lot more aggressive, a lot more talent, and a lot more arguments.

After scoring yesterday at Bowls, we knew today would be even better.  Higher tide so the rights were perfect!

Seira-chan flying down this wave.

Look how beautiful the rights were.  Some of them were better than the lefts.  I saw Seira-chan ride some from Bowls all the way to Rockpiles.

A very talented young woman.  She knows how to catch the good waves, and she knows how to ride them properly.  Good girl!

We surfed 6 hours today.  Sunburnt and surfed out.  It’s only 6pm and I’m going to bed.  Goodnight or good evening.  Goodnight for me.

Diving into the big wave dark room…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Mid-morning at Rockpiles was amazing.  Lots of big waves so you have to choose the right ones.  

Last week was big and I couldn’t get any photos.  BUT, today was big and I got some nice photos of this new big wave surfer.  

It’s pretty cool how confident surfing big waves can do to a man.  He was ripping all morning.  Now he’s back on an airplane dreaming about this mornings magical session.  

This afternoon the waves were going off at Bowls.  The tide was super high so the rights were really good and long.  

Guess who’s back?  Yes, Seira-chan is back and surfing better than ever!  She was charging this evening.

I can tell that Seira-chan was practicing in Japan because from her first wave, she was ripping.  Good flow and good style like always.  I get really happy seeing progression like this!