I forgot to put my cameras in my car this morning so it felt a lot different.  It felt free, but irresponsible.  Haha.  Not having to ride along the side and get hit by other surfers surfboards for a day was nice.  So I just surfed, surfed, and surfed.

Thank goodness Allen was out as a backup cameraman.  He’s been taking some pretty cool photos which are getting better each day.  He caught one of me taking off on my new 7’6.  This board works in knee high waves and I’m pretty sure it will work in 10′ waves too.  Can’t wait for that.

I use to always ride my big wave surfboards in town just to feel it out.  Feel the paddle, feel the buoyancy, and gain confidence before paddling into my first 10′ wave on the North Shore.

This board feels really good.  It feels like I can take off easily on huge waves and it feels like I can turn it too.

Not too many 7’6 boards will turn like this so I call it “magic.”  A new magic board to my collection that you will be seeing very often.

Opps, forgot the girls were out riding longboards.  Now they are finally bored so we’re jumping back on the shortboards tomorrow.  Not me, I’m going to ride my magic 7’6 everyday!

Perfect longboard days continue…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana knee high and perfect for long boarding.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was a beautiful morning!  Super sunny Sunday!  Trying out a Kelia Moniz longboard and feeling what the 2X World Champion rides.  

High performance longboard made for high performance riding.  

The girls ripping!  Walking on water all morning long.  After this, I put my camera away once I saw Allen swim out.  

Pretty cool because these girls have 2 photographers.  I’m shooting while surfing, and Allen is swimming while shooting.  The only waves I’m riding is the ones they are missing.  So yes, I’m riding the leftovers.  

You can learn a lot by looking at your photo because this is real.  Some people get shocked when they see their photos, but this is the best way to learn.  So yes, go get yourself a personal photographer if you want to surf cooler.

And if you have a good photographer, he will capture moments you don’t even know are happening behind you.  Nice shot Allen!  

These are the photos I like the best.  It’s all about the ambiance.

Nobody on this island is riding more waves than these girls.  They’re averaging 30 waves each per session.  The funny thing is if I don’t tell them it’s time go in, the will stay out forever.