Yesterday once more:  This is called “glassy conditions.”  Surfers love it…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 10-12′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and little bumpy.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds becoming South.
Cool morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful morning.  Clear sky, light wind, and perfect conditions.

Diamond Head is one of the best places to practice a cutback.  Lots of waves and lots of opportunities.  First you have to do a nice bottom turn.

Then practice this cutback over and over.  You have to practice it so much that it becomes muscle memory.

Absolutely perfect conditions for either surfing or foiling.  I chose to fly.

Then back out for Round 2 this afternoon.  More practice and practice.

Improving every single day.  After surfing some some pretty big North shore yesterday, this was really easy for her.

After surfing, I went to Times to look for a snack.  This is my favorite!  But $5.99 for 4 small little pieces of mochi?  No thank you.  I’m going to wait for Japan…

I never go to the North Shore in the afternoon unless I know there will be a 99% chance of scoring!  We pull up, the winds are onshore.  As we paddle out, the winds switch offshore and becomes a surfers dream.   I travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  This one took 1 hour in the car and 15 dollars of gas.  The only 2 other surfers out with us were also smiling the whole time.    

A monk seal on the beach and lots of turtles in the water.  Crystal clear visibility and the most perfect waves you could ever ask for.  

I was paddling into a 5′ set and didn’t yell “go” to my student because I thought that wave was way too big for her.  As I stood up, I looked in front and she was already riding it.  Haha.  Just the white wash alone is overhead so imagine how big this take off was.  I was so proud of her!