Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 5:10am.
North shore 4-6′ and ugly.
Ala Moana waist it high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and little better.
West winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Right before this recent storm came, Diamond Head was looking super green.  Then we had more rain in the past 2 days so it’s only going to get a lot more beautiful.

I drove past there yesterday and today and it didn’t look very inviting.  Windy and junky.  I’ve been surfing so much recently so my body needed the sauna more than the ocean.  So it was back in the sauna.  Tomorrow will be back in the ocean for sure!

When we first started foiling, I bet everybody hated us.  We were flying in between surfers, catching the best waves, and screaming like little kids. This is one of my favorite foiling photos.  I’m in front while Tony Moniz is in back as we were flying around like kids.  We both weren’t that good back then so it was very dangerous.  Not for us, but for them.  All we cared about was having the most fun out there.  And yes we did…

On his last day, we went to surf a secret spot in front of my friends house.  Waves good, board working good, and excellent rides.  The best day in this surfers career.  When we came in all happy, my friend said “hey, I headed up the sauna for you guys.  And the ice bath too.”  Perfect end to a great day of care for the body, mind, and soul.

Surfing and foiling are similar.  You have to know the basics, and practice and practice until it’s all muscle memory.  Once that happens, it’s really easy after that.  A brand new Superman!  

Ryu-san’s surfing went up 3 levels on this trip.  His dream to fly will come soon too.  

And the boys turning into men.  Look at Ryu-san in the background waving a shaka while his son Konosuke-kun is waving two shakas.  I love these kind of moments.

And to see Sounosuke-kun growing up and feeling comfortable in the ocean was amazing.  This day turned this boy into a man.