I spent all of today’s Thanksgiving day with family.  From one party to another, I left with the feeling of gratitude.

Joshua and Seth were going to help me with the ice bath today.  I tried over and over but couldn’t pass 30 seconds.  It shocked my body so much and it felt like my body was going to shut down.  Everybody says it’s mental and takes time.  I’m willing to put in the time because of the health benefits.  After I gave up for today, my little niece jumped in and stayed in for 3 minutes.  OMG!

The family is growing and growing.  Lot’s of food, lots of conversation, lots of stories, and lots of love.  Thanksgiving is a day to be grateful and I can’t express how grateful I am.  Starting tomorrow, I have to burn off the 10 pounds I gained today.  One pound at a time, and one wave at a time.  Surfing tomorrow!

Freedom Wins.  Happy Thanksgiving Day!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 4-6′ and growing. 15′ tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to eat and eat.
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving Day!

It wasn’t too long ago when we celebrated my birthday in Japan.  Family, friends, and Dom Perignon.  

Vintage 1964.  OMG, that was before I was born!  Thank you to my Yamari Family!

Foiled this morning, then spent the afternoon with the family.  Celebrating another birthday and another year of wonderful memories ahead.  

Honouliwai is one of a kind.  After he blew out the candle, he bent over his cake and licked it!  Then he licked it again, and again, and again.  The first classic moment of his brand new year!  Happy birthday Love!