I really wanted a work out this morning so I took out my foil.  Nobody was out at Bowls so I had it to myself.  I caught my first wave and it lasted 2 minutes totaling 6 waves.  Then my second wave the same.  So in 4 minutes and 12 waves later, I was exhausted, sweating, and content.  One of my best foil sessions in a while.

I love days like today.  Nobody around and super fun if you have the right board and right mind.

Passed by Diamond Head on the way home and was surprised how fun it looked.  Nobody was out and there were a lot of waves.  I sat there for 30 minutes trying to encourage myself to surf.  My mind was saying “go” but my body was saying “no.”  My body won.

I was imagining how many waves I would catch, and what exactly I would do on each wave.  Image training!  

Finding more photos from my travel folder.  Swimming with a huge whale shark in the Maldives was lucky, and a great experience.

More photos from our 2018 Krui trip.

Traveling takes time, patience, understanding, and flexibility.  You have to be willing to take chances, willing for change, and willing to learn.  Kimura-san and I usually look for the cutest girl at the airport counter, speak very nicely, and hope for the best.  It never works.  Haha.  

On the last day of this trip, I got shocking news of a dear friend that suddenly passed away.  I went numb.  My mind wasn’t working, neither was my body.  I totally shut down and all I wanted to do was to go home.  So looking back at these photos makes me sad, but at the same time, makes me appreciate life.  Looks like we scored yeah?  

Matsu taking off deep.  

Matsu and Eri-chan waiting for the perfect wave.

When the mega swell hit, the whole ocean came alive.  I’m not going to lie, I was kind of nervous paddling out to this spot.  A spot I’ve never surfed, never heard of, or never seen before.  I knew paddling out on my 6’2 was going to be a challenge on these monster 10′ waves.  Look how small that guy is!  

There were only 3 of us surfers out.  This wave came in and nobody even looked at it.  Nobody wanted any part of it.  I was wondering why so when I turned around to paddle for it, I looked back into the tube and said “no thank you!”  If you make a mistake out here, you will die.  Nobody was rushing into waves and we all ended up taking turns.  One of the few times I didn’t want a turn but when I was up, I had to go.  Paddle hard, commit, and hope for the best!

The EDDIE AIKAU Big Wave Invitational.
Opening Ceremony: December 8, 2023
Waiting Period: December 14, 2023 to March 12, 2024.
Eddie Would Go!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore head high and bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and slow.
Diamond Head shoulder high and wild.
Strong trade winds at 35mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and double rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!