The best place to be at sunrise…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore coming up to 3-5′ today. Offshore in the morning.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
South winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a super fun session at Bowls with Ryuushi-san this morning.  He rode my magic board and we worked on simple technique.  Wave by wave he got better and better.  Excellent surfing!  

The waves were way better than expected.  Absolute perfect conditions!!!  

It got pretty crowded but there were enough waves for everyone.    

While Stu and I were having a conversation, he saw something swim right under us.  He pointed it out and said “tiger shark!”  

Thank goodness it wasn’t a tiger shark, but a shark is a shark.  See it on the right side of this photo?  It was actually hunting something right under our feet.

Then he came back again and again looking for food.  It’s pretty shallow so imagine this thing looking up and thinking your foot is food?

When sharks are hunting right under your feet, it’s time to go in.  So we caught one more and went in.  This was Ryuushi-san’s last wave which was super beautiful.  Another wonderful day in paradise!

HIFF Red Carpet Family Night:  SOLD OUT Trilogy Surf Movie:  New Wave

Good morning 4am.
North shore small today but coming up again tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds in the morning becoming South.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!