Turtles and Barbecues….

good sunny evening. gosh, how good did it feel today when the sun came out? really good. went surfing this morning at sunset point. from the beach, it looked crowded and not that good. paddled out and it was actually pretty fun. head high, clean, and all beginners out. surfed for only 30 minutes but caught some really good waves. supposed to be 8′ by tomorrow afternoon so looking forward to that….

had a freaking nuts crazy fun barbecue at nick nozaki’s house last night. it was good to seeing everybody having a good time. it was raining, muddy, and windy but nobody cared. i don’t remember too much but all i know is that my feet is still dirty…. oh, and i came home with somebody else’s slippers. sorry. wanted to thank nick for letting us invade his house and wanted to thank tokura-san for buying all the food and stuff… arigato gozaimasu….

i passed by the kitchen a couple of times on the way to the bathroom and ended up staying here for most of the night. warm room with warm people….

i was so happy to see yumie. yumie is such a sweet girl. chiaki took like 3 photos of us because yumie kept on closing her eyes. then chiaki said, “good enough, yumie’s eyes in this photo are more open then naoka’s in any of his photos” haha. that was pretty funny….

on the way back from the north shore today, i passed by backdoor and seen my nephew’s and friends hitchhiking for a ride up to rocky point. boys will be boys….

and last, wanted to say thanks so much to tokura-san for everything in hawaii. have a safe return to japan. this is yesterday at a secret beach we surf at least once every year. a place to relax, ride good waves, and enjoy with nobody around for miles and miles…. it’s only us and the turtles….

Shane Dorian at Backdoor….


when is the last time you seen backdoor like this? yeah, it’s been that long. this was last winter… shane dorian in the office. 7 photographers all trying to get that perfect shot. not only surfers now days have to get good positioning in the barrel, the photographers have to position themselves too to get that unique one of a kind shot. it’s pretty cool being on both sides. pulling into the barrel and getting your photo taken by lots of photographers and seeing it in a magazine is pretty awesome. and at the same time, swimming in the water while a surfer is coming straight at you trying to get as close as you can get, taking a shot, going home and download it into your computer, and then see it published in some major surfing magazine. that’s pretty awesome too. but if i had to choose one, i’d be the surfer in the barrel for sure…. gosh, i can’t wait for another day like this. when it comes, i’m surfing ALL day…..
**by the way, a lot of people tell me that i’m really lucky because i eat good food all the time. just wanted to say yes, i think i’m lucky too. so thanks to everybody that makes that happen because i’m not eating it by myself….

Tila Tequila: Want a Shot of Love??

i was watching MTV a while back and came across this reality tv program. it’s about a girl who is bisexual and is looking for love. they started off with like 20 straight guys and 20 lesbians. to tell you the truth, i got hooked on watching it. why? because it was crazy. and i mean crazy…

this is tila tequila. she’s from vietnam and lives in singapore. she can’t make up her mind if she wants to be with a man, or a woman for the rest of her life. she’s a model that made her career off her blog on myspace. now, she’s one of the most famous bisexual women in the world. thanks to MTV and people like me who watch the program…..

she’s been featured in maxim magazine and is a lot of men and women’s dream girl….

who won her love? it came down to a man and a women in the end. i could have told you that was going to happen. it’s tv right? but she ended picking the man. now after being the higest rated series on MTV since 2002, they are planning to make another reality show on her….

6 million people watched the last show when she had to choose her man, or lady. including me. that’s more than the sugar bowl…. now the question is “is she hot?” depends who you ask? want to know what i think? yeah, i know you do. i don’t think she’s that hot. there are many more beautiful women in this world. BUT!!!! is she smart? ABSOLUTELY YES!!! this girl marketed and promoted herself to become one dam popular bisexual….. and she is counting the money day by day…. good job tila tequila…. can i have a shot? haha… just joking….