what’s up guys, gosh, the waves in town were going off today!!! surfed my hideout spot this morning and it was perfect… head high and no winds. came home, took a nap, and went to check the waves this evening….
this was bowls at 4pm. no, that’s not ants, that’s over 35 surfers. no thank you…
this was diamond head at 5pm. the waves were super good but there were 150 guys out with no parking on both sides of the road. no thank you… headed straight back to my hideout spot. it was packed. 5 guys out. haha… anyway, a great day of surfing. the water is cleaning up. i could actually see the reef. surf town again tomorrow. save gas…. goodnight…
this is mitchbergh again. the guy who gave me the shell….
i found a photo of him 4 years when i was in saraigao. that’s him on the far right….. gosh, he grew up pretty fast. that year, i taught some of the boys how to do the “shaka”….
this is also 4 years ago. the girl next to me is luma. luma is the best filipino cook in the world. when you go on boat trips, you usually lose weight. but not when luma cooks. next is gerry from sagana resort. good surfer and super cool guy…. and to the far right is scott countryman. scott owns “the king” and is one of the only guys who does surf charters in the philippines. he surfs, dives, and has one of the nicest boats i’ve ever seen. scott, please keep those spots secret and if anybody wants to go there, tell them that i have to be there. then i’ll be in cebu the next day.. haha….
i wasn’t joking when i said luma knows how to cook. check out our menu for sept. 07, 2004. this was the second time i’ve been on the boat. everyday, the menu would change. remember, this is no 5 star restaurant with super markets around, this is on a 120 foot yacht in the middle of the ocean somewhere in the philippines…. great job luma….
*that was 4 years ago. this was this year in sairgao….
there was this hot chick hanging around the contest. i’d see her everyday like 4 times or more. she’d just be everywhere. eating at the restaurant near our room, at the parties, at the contest, and even taking a tan on the beach with her bikini….
finally, i got the balls to ask her what her name was. and i was lucky enough to get a photo of her.. i’ll give you her name tomorrow….
Philippine Dreams…..
On Clear Days, On Rainy Days, I Think of that Smile….
good morning. 6:30am. north shore is flat. town still has head high waves with perfect conditions. yesterday lighthouse looked all time. i’m going to go check it out. have a nice day…
diving bali style… andre speared this dogtooth in bali and within a couple hours, there were perfect sashimi slabs. this is the lifestyle. catch a fish, and share it with family and friends….
**this song is out of okinawa too. rimi natsukawa singing nada sou sou is one of my favorite japanese songs. it’s number one on my “on-the-go” playlist on my ipod. such a beautiful song. up until now, i really didn’t understand the meaning of the song. now i do. such a beautiful song. sad, but beautiful….
another photo for the boys. straight out of okinawa…
***just watched the news. BRITISH AIRLINES JUST BANNED SURFBOARDS AS BAGGAGE ON ALL FLIGHTS…. that sucks…
Dirty Water Tuesday….
good evening. waves were going off today. passed by diamond head and the waves were perfect. lighthouse was going off…. i didn’t want to go in the water because of the sewage spill. got a cut on my foot and i want to keep my foot. but probably chance it tomorrow. waves dropping with epic conditions… have a safe night. oh, and wanted to congratulate hawaii for ranking #3 in america for the healthiest people…. makes me want to eat a bigmac tomorrow. haha….
check out the new surfing magazine this month. sick article on “bali and beyond”. featuring the top 5 grom superstars coming out of bali. including garut and mega…. yeah boys!!!!
here’s garut’s spread. flying in the dark…..
and here’s mega’s spread. gosh, these kids are blowing up. i’m so stoked to be able to see them taking their surfing to the international level….
here’s the boys flashing the gangster sign 2 years ago around christmas. boys will be boys….
here’s page 108-109 of cloud 9. the left side is hayato. view from top and bottom….. and the right side of the page is one thick ass barrel. nobody wanted that one….
and lucky you live hawaii. check out this sunset outside my house right now. sick….
** and about lisa anderson, she will be here on November 24, 2007 ??? 10 a.m. at Barnes & Noble, Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu, Hawaii for her new book signing. see you there….. thanks maki for the info….