So happy to surf with Ozeki-san this morning.  He’s been surfing for 45 years so has a lot of experience in surfing, and also surf culture.  Look at this beautiful bottom turn!

I just love to watch surfing from so close behind.  I can see every little detail.

I should have given Ozeki-san a high five!

For this girl, we are practicing timing.  Once you get the timing right, everything will fall right into place.  In this case, the timing for this takeoff is perfect.

You want to pop up from the top of the wave like this.  Then you will be at the top of the wave going down with a lot of speed.

Then comes the bottom turn.  Just like this.

Thank you Ozeki-san for the wonderful surf session at Bowls!  It was a pleasure surfing with you!

Ben Aipa always trained me at Diamond Head.  It’s a lot windier and a lot more challenging than Ala Moana.  He use to always tell me “If you can surf Diamond Head, you will learn more about the waves, tides, winds, currents, and ocean.  And once you can feel comfortable and can surf Diamond Head well, you can surf anywhere else.”   I didn’t understand it too well back then, but I sure do now…

So we’ve been training hard at Diamond Head.  The girls use to be lost out there, but not anymore.   And when we go to Ala Moana, it’s pretty easy for them.

Above us only sky…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamoand Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!