Since the word got out that yesterday was the best day in months, today was super crowded.  Every surfer in Hawaii is waiting for that perfect wave that has been really rare.  

This girl doesn’t have to wait too long.  She catches the most waves and paddles around the most too.  

When I say go, she goes!  Progression wave by wave. 

I don’t have to say go, and Malcom just goes.  Haha.  Always in the right place at the right time.  Smiling the whole ride. 

This afternoon was so good!  Round 2 with bigger waves and just 3 surfers out.  Score!  

If this were Japan, there would be hundreds of surfers out.  But since this is Hawaii, just a few on this perfect afternoon.  Surf your Dream…

I think the most important part of surfing is to be able to connect to the ocean.  That’s what we’ve been working on and now these girls can surf any type of surf conditions.  I don’t even have to paddle out with them anymore. 

I’m watching and taking video from the exact same spot Ben Aipa use to coach me from.  It’s very hot, dusty, lots of ants, bugs, and hundreds of flies.  Now I appreciate Coach Ben even more.    

Yes, I’d rather be in the cool ocean.

This girl started off on this very same 11′ longboard.  She rode it again the other day and this is when you realize how much you’ve improved over the years.  Pretty incredible.  

The friendly competition continues.  Pushing each other to the limits.  Off the lips and barrels coming soon…

Chizu@Bowls

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!