Wow, did you see this mornings clouds?  It was strange, but beautiful strange.  Jerome looking up and enjoying natures free show.

The waves this morning was the best in a month. perfect waves with perfect conditions.  Check out this sequence.

Riding on the upper part of the wave will generate more speed.

And when I’m riding behind yelling “TURN!!!” you better TURN!!!

Just like this!!!

This girl got a new magic board and her surfing is progressing pretty quickly on it.

Good finish on a great wave.

Kyle the style master.

Passing by on his Ben Aipa classic longboard.

When I was paddling back out, I saw Dean get one of the best waves of the day.  The full sequence coming tomorrow morning with the surf report.

After surfing Bowls this morning with 30 aggressive surfers, it was nice to surf this afternoon with nobody out.  The ladies scored!

If you dive deep, you will most likely encounter “shallow water blackout.”  It’s very dangerous because if you’re not with a dive buddy that can rescue you and bring you back to life, you will drown.  I nearly blacked out on this 75′ dive as my friend filmed me.  Luckily I woke myself up because she wouldn’t have been able to rescue me.  You see stars, you fall into a dream, and when you wake up, you don’t know where you are until you start throwing up.  Then you know you just cheated death.  For a diver, we all know the consequences.  At the same time, we all know it’s the most peaceful way to die.

So as I watch this documentary called “The Deepest Breath,” there was a lot of mixed emotions.  I have friends who free dive, I have friends who are reckless, and I have friends who are the safest.  But when you put the two together, sometimes the safest one dies.  It was sad to watch, but also very educational.  The ocean can take ones life at any given moment.  And those moments have been happening way to often recently.  So enjoy your life and live every day to the fullest because tomorrow may never come…

Randy@Bowls

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!