I was riding a wave in the morning and saw something swimming under me.  It turned out to be a school of Omilu.  They kept on riding with me until I looked down too long and fell.  Haha.  

The underwater world is pretty magical.  I would love to be a fish.

There is a secret spot on the South shore that catches the biggest waves when there is a swell.  It’s very powerful and very hard to surf.  But when you get a good one, it feels like you’re surfing on the North Shore.  

The wave keeps on going and going.  It’s the perfect place to practice cutbacks.  Well done…

The world we live in is getting so crazy.  A police officer pulled over a car for speeding and when he walked to the drivers window, he got shot.  That is terrifying…

Sunrise Hawaii…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Paddling out early this morning and paddling in around lunch time.  We surfed for 5 hours which was my longest session in 5 years.  I didn’t know I could still surf for that long.  Haha.

The waves were still big so Yui-san was a little nervous paddling out.  But after a few waves, the nerves went away and the nice bottom turns begun.

The best view in Hawaii!  Awesome surfing!

Takei-san is a very good surfer.  We haven’t surfed together for 5 years so I forgot how long he likes to stay out in the ocean.  5 hours later, he still wanted to ride more waves.

I think Takei-san caught 40 waves today?  Wave after wave after wave.  After the 4th hour, I was dehydrated, sunburnt, thirsty, and delirious.  Takai-san kept on going and going.  If I didn’t say it’s time to go in, I think we’d still be out there now.

A Fancy Fresh fruit mango/strawberry smoothie refilled my energy tank.  And a 3 hour nap when I got home.  Now I’m up getting ready for sleep because tomorrow I foresee another very long day.  Going to surf all day everyday while this South swell lasts.  Good night!