Still addicted to flying…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful and very low tide morning.  Foilers are complaining but surfers are loving it.   

When you get to a certain level of surfing, you won’t forget it.  You might feel a little sluggish and stiff on the first couple waves, but everything comes back pretty quickly.  This girl already caught up to where she left off last time.  Now it’s time to go up a few more levels!  

Feeling content at 6am.  Only a surfer knows the feeling.

Round 2 we went to Diamond Head.  Much bigger, much more wild, and much more nature.  It was a very beautiful day.

Red is magic. 

I sat up top, took video, commented, and now this girl is going to go home and learn.  I talk, I scold, and I hardly praise.  That’s the only way to get better.  Ben Aipa taught me that.

Surfing in the afternoons is so beautiful.  You can see totally different colors than the early morning.  Everything is so blue!   My two students were taking turns riding every single wave that came to us.  

Off the airplane and into the blue.  This is how you maximize your vacation.  

Low tide and very shallow water.  Fujiki-san navigating it perfectly.  The perfect view!

Surfing and smiling the whole way!

Surf your dream…